Movie still from 1936 – Achhut Kanya

There is something glowing about this movie still.

It is from the movie Achhut Kanya (untouchable girl) from 1936. This was the first movie to challenge the cast system.

There is a delightful real life story surrounding this movie:

The movie stars Ashok Kumar (cast after the original hero had eloped with the producer’s wife and leading lady) and Devika Rani (the producer’s wife who decided to come back) in the lead roles.

And you think the current scandals are unbelievable…

Jnanadanandini Tagore who popularised the “Bombay style” of draping a saree in Bengal

“On her arrival in Bombay, Jnanadanandini discarded the cumbersome oriental dress for the neat way Parsi women had of wearing the saree. Though she made minor alterations, she basically adhered to this mode of dressing…. Jnanadanandini returned wearing the saree in a new way, all the womenfolk of the family adopted it. This attracted other Brahmikas too”

Women porters in Saree, from 1920′s

I discovered this photograph at British Library online. I don’t think I could smile with that kind of load on my head but these women not only they could strike a pose (almost) but the fact that they are smiling for the photographer  is really intriguing.

“Women porters, Madras,” a photo from the 1920′s

Love this saree picture from 1940′s

Beautiful chickankari work.

Here is some contemporary chickan work

Exactly the same!

The art is said to be introduced by Noorjahan the beautiful queen of Emperor Jahangir. She is said to be an expert in embroidery and inspired by the Turkish embroidery.

Another story is that the chikan originated in East Bengal. There is a mention of chikan, the florals on fine muslins in 3rd century BC. The craftsmen believe that the origin goes back to the time of Prophet. It is believed that while he was passing through a village in Uttar Pradesh, he requested a villager for water. On being offered that, he gave the art of Chikankari to the poor villager as an art that will never let him go hungry.

As old as time itself. And that is what I love about sarees – it is a bridge between You and your heritage, all rolled up in six yards.

Calcutta and Sarees from 1945

I love this picture for two reasons; it shows sarees from 1945 and it shows Calcutta from 1945.

As some of you know, I am an avid antique map collector and have one of the better private collections of antique Indian maps. Hopefully I’ll share that with you at some point.

The origin of these pictures is as follows:

The South Asia Section of the Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania recently acquired from a bookdealer a photograph album consisting of 60 photographs of Calcutta taken most likely between 1945-1946. The photographer, Mr. Claude Waddell, also provided the interesting glosses accompanying each photograph.

Indian women, dressed in the native Saree, return from prayer at Jain Temple. Little girls wear European
dress usually until the marriage age, although some mothers like to dress the little girls in Sarees.

Check out more of them at UPenn site.

Indian Military Uniform Saree from 1945

Indian Military Uniform Saree from the Life magazine June 1945.

Love the collar on the saree blouse!

A Tribute to Chantal Boulanger: A Woman Who Preserved and Promoted the Art of Saree Draping

This post is a tribute to cultural anthropologist Chantal Boulanger who passed away in December 2004. This French woman was an expert on south India’s Dravidian culture. She spent over a decade in India, from 1980 to 1996, researching Hindu customs, temple practices, and photographing Indian life and spiritual customs mostly in Tamil Nadu.

One of her greatest contributions is her research and meticulous documentation of over a hundred different variations of saree drapes. Most of these saree drapes would have eventually become forgotten if it had not been for her work on recording and preserving this unique art.

Chantal’s work has helped to preserve a precious part of Indian culture. Her book Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping is a priceless contribution to the world of sarees. Her books classifies families of sarees and provides detailed diagrams of how to properly drape each saree. Below is an example of one of Chantal’s depictions showing how to drape a saree in Mul style.

Thank you Chantal for your passion and hard work to preserve this precious art and vital component of Indian culture.

Remembering Indira Gandhi on her birthday

Indira Gandhi is one of my favorite women leaders. She occupied the office of Prime Minster with certain grace, certain knowledge and she had a sense of confidence (some might say cockiness) but may be that’s why I liked her.